Beer Monopoly

 

Dr.Ina Verstl

www.beermonopoly.net/news_march10.htm

 

Austria – Renaissance of whisky distilleries

Sir Sean Connery, eat your heart out: it was not the Scots who first wore tartan kilts, it was the Austrians! Yep. More than 5,000 years ago Celts settled in what today is Austria and started weaving checked fabrics, which men wore as “kitls” or what the Scots call “kilts”. Even today many Austrians take pride in sporting their traditional Celtic skirts. What must annoy the northern Bravehearts even more is that whisky distilling is enjoying a renaissance in the Alpine republic. The latest distillery to start selling its “uisge beatha“ is the Langenrohr distillery, located in the village of Langenrohr near Vienna. It was set up by Gerd Majan, a brewer by training, and Arthur Brenner (nomen est omen), a distiller. Since they share an interest in all things fermenting, the distillery also houses a brewery. Undoubtedly, theirs must be the world’s smallest commercial brewery and distillery dedicated to hand-crafted beers and spirits of the highest quality.

Many of our readers will remember Gerd Majan from his previous life as Ziemann’s Deputy Sales Manager and Key Account Manager SABMiller responsible for Africa and Eastern Europe. Having travelled the world for 30 years selling plant and equipment for the brewing industry, he decided last year that it was time to start something new. And what could have been nearer to his heart than running his own brewery cum distillery?

Settling in Langenrohr where he owns a former farmhouse, he soon found a soul-mate and partner among his neighbours. Arthur Brenner. And then one thing kind of led to another.

It must be said, though, that the area, which is dotted with vineyards and ancient cellars, has long been famous for its eaux de vie. Many farmers hold a distiller’s licence to produce fruit-based spirits – another way of getting rid of surplus fruit. In the village of Langenrohr, a dozen or so farmers own stills. If you visit the farmers’ markets in the villages around Langenrohr, you can sample your way through highly aromatic eaux de vie until, well, until you need someone to drive you home.

Three years ago, Mr Majan and Mr Brenner came up with the idea: let’s do our own whisky, spirits and beer. Supported by their like-minded wives, they began converting the Majan’s unused stables and barns into a brewery and distillery plus cellar. 

Obviously, the two husband-and-wife- teams are not fazed by the hard physical labour involved in craft brewing and distilling. But as they say: quality has its price.

When preparing an apricot mash for Marillengeist, for example, they will happily spend an afternoon cutting the apricots open to check if the fruit isn’t spoilt on the inside. Needless to add, they will do the same with their cherries, apples and pears.

But their labour of love is worth the effort. I tasted last year’s Marillengeist (42 % proof) and it was divine: an overwhelming mix of one part pure ripe fruit and one part pure late summer in the countryside.  Fruity, not too sweet and oh, so smooth.

When it comes to malts, the same rule applies. Only the best quality will do. Hence Mr Majan and Mr Brenner use brewers’ malts such as Munich Malt, Pale Malt even Wheat Malt. In one of their barrels they keep a wheat malt whisky. Unusual, but true. If you like a clean buttery aroma and flavour, this is the real stuff.  

Part of the fun of whisky production is blending. That’s why I fear that the interesting wheat whisky will find its way into one of their products which they will start shipping later this year. At least I could taste it before and enjoy it.

The Langenrohr brewery and distillery has a website:www.lebe-geniesse.com. If you cannot wait until they sell over the internet, you can always ask Mr Majan and Mr Brenner when they have their tastings. A visit to Mr Majan’s farm to sample their beers, spirits and whiskies accompanied by very fine farmhouse food is strongly recommended.